The low buzz of air-conditioning aboard the ferry keeps me from falling asleep. It's an uneventful journey, dozing, looking out the window, occasionally interrupted by a couple of Jordanian businessmen wanting to see if I'm an investor. The ferry pulls into Aqaba port and I look for the desk for getting my passport stamped and visa issued. It turns out this is something you're meant to do in transit and one of the police officers aboard the ferry. has to take me to the port office, which is closed so he opens it up and issues the stamp himself.
The cab driver insists on 10 dinar to drive into the city, citing some port-zone standardisation of fares which means he cannot budge. Having been informed by the ferry guards that I should pay no more than 3-4 dinar I attempt to argue, but my bargaining position is weak given that (a) I have no money and need to find an ATM the nearest probably being in the city (b) I don't know which direction I need to go (c) all the guards have disappeared now for the evening. Reluctantly, I agree and after a 25 minute ride I'm in the city centre handing over the cash and facing a hotel which the driver says is "cheap".
The man at Beach Hotel reception smiles, "25 dinar a night, two nights minimum, 50 dinar". Hmm, first impressions of Jordan, it seems expensive. I explain this is too much for me, and he says he cannot shift his price, so I say thanks and make to leave looking out for signs of any willing to negotiate, he just smiles goodbye and returns to his TV.
A short way up the hill and along a sidestreet I spy another hotel, it's significantly cheaper, a quick look inside and I decide to take the room, still a bit more than I'd want to pay but it means I don't have to carry my bags anymore and can rest for a while.
Outside the street is busy with shoppers and people dining out. After strolling around looking for the bus-station for tomorrow morning I stop at one of the fresh fruit-juice and snack stalls, order orange juice, and sit down at one of the small plastic garden tables arranged outside on the corner of the street. It's a good way to chill out and watch passers-by.
Lesson from Thessaloniki, always check the bathroom! I gave it a cursory glance, tiled, looked clean, mistake! Waking up at 6.30am to catch an early bus to Petra, there's no hot water in the shower, or more accurately there's no water at all. The sink is the same. I try flushing to toilet to see if it's all the plumbing, nothing. Removing the lid to the check the tank reveals a family of cockroaches living in a water-free ceramic house. Ok guys, sorry to disturb you, don't mind me , I'll shower in Petra.
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