No luck Lucknow

Lucknow is basically a stopping point for me before long haul trip to Kathmandu. Still it's a chance to see another city in India, maybe some of the landmarks associated with the great mutiny of 1857. However, after a pleasant train journey things start to deteriorate...


Outside the railway station the familiar ambush of rickshaw drivers awaits. This time it feels more irritating. Having managed to negotiate a fare and destination to a cheap hotel recommended in the Rough Guides book (not easy as drivers can receive commissions by taking tourists to other, usually more expensive, hotels) and reached the rickshaw (which turns out to be cycle rather than motorised) and placed my bags on the seat the driver changes the price and demands 33% extra. When I ask what for he says to cover the railway 'parking fee'. I protest that we agreed a fare and this is a charge that shouldn't be passed onto me. I take my bags out of the rickshaw. The driver protests at first, holding onto my rucksack and I say 'let go' as firmly as possible without swearing, and then he consents to the original fare. But feeling almost cheated and not a little stubborn I shake my head and say 'why should I trust you now' whilst walking away. I'm pursued for a few hundred yards by the driver on his rickshaw trying to convince me but to no avail.


The long walk to the hotel is a chance to stretch my legs after the train journey and also clearing my head somewhat. On reflection, I feel bad about the encounter. We had agreed a fare so to some extent my stance was legitimate. But the amount was so small, only 10 rupees, and walking the distance over 50 minutes, I know it would've been a big strain on his legs to haul me, my rucksack and guitar all that way, through hot, dangerous, noisy and fuming traffic, for only 40 rupees (50 pence).


Maybe it was a reaction to being surrounded by people and having to be on guard and assertive to avoid being tricked? Maybe reading too much into warnings from the guidebook? Maybe because this is the first time alone in India? Maybe all of the above. It was one of those moments where you forget what you know to be reasonable and focus on feeling aggrieved. Anyway, the walk gives me chance to think and resolve to stick to what I know i right, be more flexible in the future and less curt with someone trying to make a living in very difficult conditions who doesn't need extra crap from me, sorry man!


The hotel adds perspective. Rickshaw drivers are trying to earn a tough living by eeking out favourable fares, but these guys can be far more dodgy with their margins. Chowdhury Lodge Annexe is behind a restaurant which you have to walk through, passing the kitchens to the reception hidden in a back-room that looks like it doubles as a storage facility. It's 9.30pm, I'm tired and it's dark. The po-faced man at reception doesn't even shrug as he tells me that the only room he has available costs 500 rupees a night and I won't find anywhere else cheaper in Lucknow as it is the holiday season.

I pause trying to look like I'm unconvinced and maybe a discount will be offered. But the reception man just stares blankly with an 'I couldn't give a .... what you do' look. The room is large but the walls are yellowing, the bathroom is decrepit, and insult to injury there is a condom floating in the toilet that refuses to flush away. Thessaloniki youth hostel has a new partner in my worst places to stay league!