Orchha

The main fort and palace at Orchha is across a bridge over the Betwa River, which at this time of year has shrunk to a series of fluorescent green pools scattered along the riverbed. Walking through a giant spiked wooden door we head towards a raised terrace.

At one end a strange mass of rises from beneath stone steps. Branches seem to melt and wilt in the heat and it appears to be a number of trees intertwined but on closer viewing it is only one tree from which branches have grown floor-wards and secured roots.

From the main courtyard of Jahangir Mahal you can survey the domed towers and turret walkways. Centrally placed are sunken bathing pools surrounded by stone benches. A few women are using the only pool filled with water to do laundry.

Ascending the main stairway from the courtyard you gain access to the turret walkways and ramparts that have precariously few railings and excellent landscape panorama views of temples, green fields and trees stretching to the horizon.

Railing support brackets are built into the side of the walls and they include foot high stone carvings of elephants bearing the load (a nice touch!) Inside the low-ceiling rooms are filled with materials and equipment for renovation works, bamboo ladder and scaffolding along with piles of rubble. The outer-walls have stone window frames shaped into various detailed geometric patterns.

Raj Rama cafe is just across the bridge back towards the village. They make very good thali, a mixture of spicy lentil-Dal, vegetables, papads and rice. Afterwards we try the Internet place but the connection is down so instead 'plan B', beer in the guesthouse garden. We manage to buy an Indian brew called 'something 5000', which has a very odd taste. Consulting a guidebook it says that brewers use glycerin as a preservative, which might explain why the sunset view of the fort appeared to be an especially dazzling pink!

Jhansi to Lucknow

Jhansi railway station is 18km away from Orchha. From here the train takes 7 hours and despite the apprehension of not having confirmed a seat it turns out not to be a problem. Asking if the seat is free a friendly looking guy nods and invites me to sit down. Vire is 31 years old and lives in a town just before Lucknow. We move from polite conversation to chatting about background and experiences, passing the time. I learn he has a degree in metallurgy and works in the steel industry. He explains that Goa and Bihar both contain large mineral and ore deposits that are mined and then sent to regional centres for processing. He also has a passion for cinema and an encyclopedic knowledge of older classic films. Without noticing time passes quickly and saying goodbye I realise it's only another hour until arriving in Lucknow.